Why I take freebies

People are often surprised to hear that I don't review restaurants anonymously, a la Ruth Reichl. They're more surprised to hear I take comps and the restaurants know I'm coming.  Well, let me elucidate a little.

Freelance writers are a dime a dozen out there. So are foodies. While I think I'm pretty reliable and knowledgeable about food, I know there are a few people who could easily take my place as a reviewer, so I'm pretty conscientious. Also, I hate the thought that someone could show up at a place I rated highly and have a dreadful experience. In a way, that makes me an advocate for all of you - and the restaurants know it. If someone reads my review, goes to the restaurant and has a bad experience, the restaurant's going to hear from me - politely and tactfully, of course.

The real deal is that when Ms. Reichl was writing, her income outstripped the cost of eating out - and I think the Times may have actually reimbursed her for her mandatory three meals at a restaurant with one or more guests before she did a review. The truth - at least for me - is that I'm paid much less for many of my reviews than the cost of the meal. I couldn't afford to do this job without the comps.

Having said that, I will add that against at least one of my editors' advice, I often pay for meals I "shouldn't" because the restaurant was on my list and I was going to eat out anyway. I don't identify myself as a food writer (really, who does that??) and I sometimes get "Single Woman Dining Alone" service. And I write it up that way.

Here's how comped dining really works:  They know I'm coming. About half the time, I'm invited to bring a guest. Most times, alcohol is included (they'd love to get me happy - I usually refrain), but sometimes the wine list is limited to certain less expensive selections. The tip is my responsibility, which is fine - and I almost always overtip, because the waitperson's stressed out by my presence. So here's what I look at:

1. You knew I was coming: you know I'm here. If you can't get it right now, fuhgeddaboutit.
2. I'm watching all the tables around me, especially the single diners. If I get served ahead of someone who came in after me, I'm annoyed. Equally annoyed if you serve someone who came in after me, first.
3. I talk to people at adjacent tables about their experiences and food.
4. I sometimes send friends in later to see what "regular people" experience.
5. If I like you, I come back unannounced at a different time of day or on a different day of the week to see what happens.
6. Please don't hover or come by the table every 10 minutes. It's annoying and reeks of a lack of confidence.
7. My ultimate rule is this: "How would I describe this restaurant to my sister?"

So yes, I take the comps. I couldn't do my job properly without them. Also, different publications have different rating systems, so something I "LOVE" in one publication, I might be "meh" about in another. But I'm still way, way better than YELP.  I promise.